Historic lows, soaring prices, and an uncertain future for Greece’s iconic vineyard
Santorini is facing its smallest grape harvest in living memory. Production for 2025 is expected at just 350–400 tons, compared with 2,500–3,000 tons in recent years and 5,000 tons in 2003.
Experts say the collapse is no surprise. “This is the result of decades of neglect,” notes viticulture professor Stefanos Koundouras, pointing to abandoned basket vines and years without replanting. Three straight years of drought and hail have pushed the ancient vineyard to its limits.
The economic impact is severe. Grape prices have jumped from €0.85/kg in 2010 to €10–12 today, threatening to hit €15. With each bottle requiring around 1.4 kg of fruit, winemakers are struggling to compete abroad.
Blame is shared. Petros Vamvakousis, president of the island’s Winemakers’ Association, says the sector has suffered from inertia and disunity, while Matthaios Argyros of Estate Argyros argues most wineries failed to invest in their own vineyards, relying entirely on growers.
The vineyard’s footprint has shrunk from 30,000 stremmata a few decades ago to 10,000 today, and could halve again within five years. That would endanger not only production but also the genetic diversity of Assyrtiko and other indigenous grapes.
Paradoxically, while volumes crash, quality remains high—for now. But Santorini’s brand cannot survive on “quality in drops.” Without coordinated action, replanting, and a balance between tourism and agriculture, one of the world’s most distinctive vineyards could fade into extinction.
Source: https://t.ly/HR1t-